Author: Marc Teale

A Quick Tour of Queen Anne

I just signed a lease for a studio apartment near the top of Queen Anne, which is the name of a hill and neighborhood in Seattle.  I thought people might enjoy a brief tour of the area.

For the past four months, I have been living in what is known as Lower Queen Anne, which is a sort of plateau halfway up Queen Anne Hill.  It is best known within the city as “Gorm.”  The area is under water for six months out of the year, which is why the nearby Space Needle was placed on such a tall pedestal.  As you may have seen in Men in Black, the Space Needle is indeed a type of spacecraft.  Contrary to the movie, the Space Needle is actually owned by the city of Seattle.  It was placed prominently on the city’s skyline by the council of elders in order to taunt extraterrestrials of the city’s prowess in interplanetary travel.  Due to budgetary constraints it is flown only once a year, in celebration of St. Stanislaus’s day.  It is typically flown around the block twice, then returned to the city center to bombard the area with lethal amounts of radiation.

During the dry season, traffic is an unmanageable nightmare.  Most commuters sleep, and sometimes live, in their cars in order to make it work on time.  Many of them are caught unawares by the annual tsunami and die in them as well.  It is not uncommon to see homeless people and car-dwellers sharing a meal on the roof of a Chevy.

Many symposia are held in the open air insanity garden between Fifth Avenue Northwest and the edge of the flat earth.  Here, some of the world’s finest minds come to ponder the void beyond the edge of the world and mingle with the homeless insane that are drawn to the area.  This is a fairly typical exchange I experienced this afternoon:

Homeless insane guy with some sort of surgical scar running down the back of his shaved head: “Hey man, which way is up?”
Me, pointing up: “That way.”
Homeless insane guy, whom I’ve never seen before: “You ain’t lyin’ to me again, are ya?”

Other attractions in the area include the fire hydrant, that one chair with the orange stripes, and Tim.  The fire hydrant is best seen when it blooms in late spring.

Up the hill–far, far up the hill–is known simply as Queen Anne.  The name dates back to the founding of Seattle in the fourth century B.C., when an advanced, unknown, and extinct culture carved the name into the hillside in seventy foot high letters.  The name’s meaning is unknown.  Based upon the numerous mass graves found by workmen and archeologists over the course of the last two hundred years, it is estimated five thousand slave laborers died during its construction.  A bustling trade in these bones has sprung up in recent years, with local artisans using them to create everything from jewelry to powdered drink mixes.

Queen Anne is the highest point in the contiguous United States.  The curvature of the earth is clearly visible from nearly any vantage point, and the sky is starless and black even at high noon.  The city has placed oxygen stations on the northeast corner of every block to help visitors unaccustomed to the thin air.  Longtime residents of the area are easily recognizable by their haunted, bleak stares and hairlessness.

There are numerous restaurants and bars at the top of Queen Anne.  A personal favorite is Andrew’s, a tiny shack hidden deep inside narrow alleys.  It is only open on Tuesdays, and serves nothing but the absolute freshest food.  If you’re squeamish about selecting and drowning your own soup kitten, you may want to search for tamer fare down the hill in Gorm.

Fires are common due to birds plummeting from the sky, shrieking and aflame.  The city has investigated the phenomenon on numerous occasions and has not been able to determine its cause.  In what may be a related matter, household pets are known to go berserk when brought to the area, and often need to be sedated before they can be dealt with.  The total lack of any insect or animal life leaves the streets eerily silent at all hours, except for the steady bass rumble incessantly resonating from deep within the hill’s core.

Parking is ample.

An Interesting Valentine’s

Last night was… odd.

I met a guy on the internet a while back.  I haven’t figured out a way to say that that doesn’t sound like we’re dating.  We’re just friends.  Really.  I’ll call him Bort.

Anyway, Bort and I went through the Seattle Art Museum yesterday afternoon, got some Chinese, and then decided to do some drinking.  I tried to find a quiet little hole-in-the-wall bar I’d been to a few weeks back, and utterly failed.  We wandered through a few blocks of deserted, glass-shard strewn alleys before giving up and heading into the next bar we walked by.  Somehow, we managed to walk into the sketchiest bar I’ve ever been in in my life.  I’ve been in some seedy shitholes… but this was place was scary.

The first thing we saw when walking in was a line of four or five probably-homeless, angry-looking men.  They were sitting on the far side of the room away from the bar, not talking to one another, spaced out across the length of the room.  None of them had drinks–they were just sitting somewhere to get out of the rain.    At the far end, a sixty-five-ish man wearing a baseball cap with “Da Nang” stitched across the front sat nursing a drink.  Something in his face made it clear that he wasn’t entirely sane.  The bar was completely silent.

I sat down and ordered a drink.  Bort went to the bathroom.  I carry a satchel with me most of the time, with a few odds and ends: my camera, a paperback, a pen and some paper–just general stuff it’s nice to have with me.  I put it in front of my bar stool to make sure no one could steal it.  My jacket went on top of it.  I’ve been in places where I wouldn’t be surprised if someone made off with my bag–but this is the first place I’ve ever seriously thought that someone might steal my jacket.

I sipped at my drink, and Bort came back and ordered a beer.  A few minutes went by, and the bouncer appeared to stick a finger in my face.  “You.  OUT.”  I stared at him, confused–I hadn’t done anything.  I looked more closely and found that he was pointing over my head, past Bort, at a dirty looking Mexican guy who was trying to order a beer.

“You can’t come in here.” the bartender announced angrily.

“This is fucking bullshit!”  The dirty little man spat.  “You steal my money and then you kick me out!”

“Out.” The bouncer repeated.  “NOW.”  The bouncer moved towards him threateningly, then escorted him out the front door with a hand on the scruff of his neck.

I turned and looked at the bartender.

“What was that about?” I asked.

“Oh, he dropped his wallet,” she replied.  “I picked it up and gave it back to him, and he says that I stole his money out of it, so we kicked him out.”

“When was that?”

“Last night!”  She shook her head.  “He tries to pull that shit, and then thinks he can just show up again the next day like nothing ever happened.  It’s not even like it was last week.”

Bort and I exchanged a glance and returned to our drinks.  A few minutes later, a guy in mirrored wrap-around sunglasses walked into the bar and orders a beer.  This was around seven at night, and it was raining outside.  The bartender demanded that he show her his eyes before she would serve him.  To check if he was on something, obviously… but I don’t even know for what.  Pot can make your eyes bloodshot, and LSD can make your pupils dilate.  Can crack do something similar?  I don’t know.

We finished our drinks and got the fuck out.  As we left, we passed through a half dozen more homeless men who had congregated around the entrance.

Bort and I walked about five blocks south into a less seedy section of Belltown, settling on the first nice-looking bar we came across.  It happened to be an Irish pub.  We sat down, I ordered a Glenfiddich with a Guinness back, and we kept drinking.  I realized that I’d left my leftover Chinese at the last bar, and decided there was no way in hell I was going back for it.  I’m sure it fed some hungry homeless guy.

We proceeded to get drunk, and started talking to the bartender.  She was from Utah, and apparently hates all the crime and dirt around here.  I said something to the effect of “You’re from Utah.  Of course this place seems dirty and crime-ridden by comparison.”

“No.  This place is fucked up,” She responded.  “This bar has been open for four years.  In that time, they’ve found two bodies in the alley behind it.  Four years.  Two bodies.

I acknowledged her point.  We kept drinking.

Somehow, Bort and I got around to discussing the fact that neither of us is what you could call completely sane.  Turns out, Bort’s just a tad crazier than I am… and has the scarred wrists and mental hospital admittances to prove it.  We talked about that for a while, but most of the details are hazy.  I was pretty drunk by this point.  The main bit was that Bort has been involuntarily committed three, maybe four times.

Bort was starting a new job the next day, so he caught the bus back and I started walking home.  On the way there, I pulled out my camera and started taking shots as I walked.  A homeless guy screamed at me from a bus stop–something along the lines of “YOU!  WITH THE CAMERA!  YOU TOO, MAN!  DON’T YOU FUCKING SHAKE YOUR HEAD AT ME!”  I kept walking.

I stopped off a few blocks from home to get one more whiskey and coke, hoping I’d be able to strike up a conversation with someone and keep drinking.  I was in a good mood despite the unrelenting weirdness, and I had tomorrow off.  Why not keep the night going?  But the bar was half-full and cliquey, so I drank alone and left without saying a word to anyone other than the bartender.

I cut through a parking lot on my way home, and was once again accosted by a stranger–but this time it was a friendly face.  A smartly-dressed young man asked me if I could give him a hand jumping his girlfriend’s car.  They’d just gone out for a Valentine’s dinner, and she’d left her lights on.  I agreed, and said I’d be back in about fifteen minutes.  Of course it occurred to me that I’d be driving drunk, but what were the odds there would be any problems driving my car two blocks, jumping a Jetta, and then driving back?  I grabbed my car keys from the apartment (I drive so infrequently I don’t even keep them with me), picked up my car, and drove back to the parking lot.

The young couple was still there, waiting for me.  The guy motioned me over.

“Hey–why don’t you get in the back of my car.” He said quietly.  “There’s a homeless guy that’s been saying some really aggressive stuff.  The cops are on their way.”

The cops.  Fantastic.  That’s just who I was hoping to see at close range while drunk and driving a car with out of state plates.

We made small talk, and the cops arrived a few minutes later.  The homeless guy shuffled off like nothing had happened.  They caught up with him, and I jumped out of the back.

“All right, you want to jump this thing, then?” I said.  The sooner we could jump the car and I could get out of there, the better.  Preferably before I had any interaction with the cops.

We jumped his car, and I made a quick, uneventful exit.

I can’t but wonder if all of my nights out are going to be this strange.

November 30, 2009

I am depressed. I have no idea what I’m doing in Seattle, or in general. When I made the plans to come here, I was half-mad with grief after Megan moved out. I’d been planning to restart our relationship once I got here, but things haven’t worked out that way.

For reasons I don’t really understand, Megan volunteered to fly out to Madison, then help me drive to Seattle. The night I went to pick her up, I was physically crushed by stress and weariness. I was so exhausted that the only joy I felt in waiting for her arrival came in the form of gratitude for any excuse to stop packing.

When she walked out of the terminal, bag in hand, she looked as haggard as I felt. Probably selfishly, I had expected that she’d have done her makeup, or her hair, or something to make herself look good. She was wearing the shapeless brown polo required for her massage clinic hours and no makeup. As she walked towards my car, not smiling, I felt only a vague worry that I was too dangerously exhausted to drive back to the empty apartment we used to share. Looking back now, it was in that moment that I realized that our romantic relationship was gone forever.

We made the drive together, which was uneventful and extremely expensive. I’ve been here for nearly a month now. I have a storage locker, a borrowed bedroom, no job, and very little else. I spent two hours on Monster today without finding a single job I was qualified for, or hadn’t already applied to. The rest of the day was spent obsessively searching for an SD card reader I’ve lost, sharing a joyless meal with my roommates/hosts where the only brief topic of conversation was the lunatic who murdered some cops yesterday, and lying on the floor staring at the ceiling fan blades.

At the moment, I’m listening to Elliott Smith’s Needle in the Hay. It’s part of my oh-so-pleasant depression mix. I’ve been working on perfecting it tonight.